Like my Eastern Europe trip, my trip to the stunning cliffs of Jurassic Coast was very much inspired by photos on Instagram haha. It's interesting to think about how much the platform has influenced tourism. While it brings stunning places to our attention, there's no doubt it's contributed to overtourism--which drives up costs for locals, destroys wildlife, and just generally makes lovely destinations much less pleasant. That said, the extra tourism--in moderation--can also revitalize dying cities.

Jurassic Coast is definitely a popular destination, and can get overcrowded in the later summer months. If I visit "Instagram destinations," I try to go in the off-season to avoid crowds, like I did with Plitvice Lakes in Croatia, and Mostar in Bosnia & Herzegovina (and of course I try to be respectful of the people and wildlife). June tends to still be slower at Jurassic Coast, and I had (luckily?) arrived during a period of horrendous weather, probably dissuading most people from traveling. 

In any case, here are my tips for visiting Jurassic Coast--for where to stay, eat, and go:

Where to Stay

I decided on Bournemouth, a seaside town 2 hours away from London by train (it's also the home and resting place of Mary Shelley, author of Frankenstein--there's a semi-morbid, semi-touching story about how she's buried with her husband's heart; I encourage you to look it up). I rented an Airbnb, which was about $27/night (£21). There are many Jurassic Coast tour companies that pick up in Bournemouth, so that worked well for me as I didn't have a car. For those with no car, staying in Wool is also an option, as there are buses that connect to popular Jurassic Coast sites.

I would've liked to stay in Weymouth, another seaside town known for its colorful houses, but it was 3 hours again from London, and housing was much more expensive. I did end up visiting Weymouth and found it charming though--it was much livelier than Bournemouth, but also felt more touristy. 

Where to Eat

If you stay in Bournemouth, I absolutely adored Café Thrive. They're a relatively affordable vegan restaurant in the city center with ample seating (perfect for working or catching up with friends). The seitan fried "chicken" sandwich was so rich and filling. 

Along the actual Jurassic Coast, there are several cafés and pubs where you can get something quick to eat. I just went for scones with jam and clotted cream (not vegan, but so good). 

Where to Go

Since I didn't have a car, I signed up for a tour with Discover Dorset. It was pretty pricey at £41 ($52), but there wasn't really another good way to see the iconic landscapes I came to England for. The tour was well-run and gave us the right amount of autonomy, but I was disappointed that we didn't really get to visit Old Harry Rocks, these gorgeous chalk cliffs. We stopped at a point in the very far distance and could barely seek the rock formations :/ Still, I found our driver very engaging and attentive--I felt sick in the morning, and he gave me some mints, switched my seat to the front, and checked in on me throughout the day. The other sites we saw were also lovely--here are my favorite stops:

Corfe Castle

Corfe Castle is both the name of the actual castle and the quaint town it's in. The castle is in ruins as it was besieged by Parliamentarians during the English Civil War. Entry is about £10, but I didn't go in--my foot was giving me trouble that day, and I felt that I could see the ruins perfectly fine from the outside haha. 

The town itself is charming and is home to many pubs and shops. There's also a steam railway station with a tiny museum (if you can call it that) and a steam train that still carries passengers regularly!

Durdle Door

Durdle Door is an iconic limestone arch along the coast. I shouldn't have been surprised, but getting to Durdle Door requires a 1/4 mile steep descent along a rocky path. There are actually miles of coastal paths connecting sites like Durdle Door and Lulworth Cove, and had I been injury-free, I would've loved to do some trail running along them. The first image in this post is also from the Durdle Door area--I definitely found the coastline here most stunning.

There are stairs down to the beach in front of Durdle Door, and you can even swim there. Bring good walking shoes for this visit since the paths are uneven and steep!

Lulworth Cove

Lulworth Cove is another beautiful natural rock formation. Unlike Durdle Door, it's right next to a town, so you can pick up an ice cream on a hot day, or some tea on a nasty day. I found the short walk to the cove much easier than the one to Durdle Door, though I'd still recommend sturdy shoes.

One thing I appreciated was the little museum/info center, where you could watch a video about the science behind the cove, and take a look at different fossils. 

If you're planning a trip to England and want to go somewhere other than London, or somewhere with more nature, I definitely recommend Jurassic Coast. It is possible to do a day trip from London, but I think it'd be pretty tiring. I'd stay at least a night or two, so you have a full day to explore the coastline. Bring some good athletic shoes, and you'll be all set for some lovely views and walks.

Happy travels,

I've wanted some more "serious" trail shoes for a while now, so I was happy to get a pair of Hoka Speedgoat 2 as an early birthday present. I've been running in Salomon X-Mission 3 for the past year--while they're great shoes, I saw Hoka One One (pronounced Hoh-ka Oh-nay Oh-nay) as the holy grail of trail shoes. Elite athletes tout the merits of the brand, and the Speedgoat 2s are actually named after Karl Meltzer ("Speedgoat"); he holds the record for winning the most 100-milers and also broke the Appalachian Trail record in 2016. 

Slews of everyday runners also claim that running in Hokas is "like running on marshmallows" and that there's zero break-in time. After reading all the positive reviews online, I was convinced that the Speedgoat 2s would be as legendary as they sounded. I even left my Salomon X-Mission 3s in France for my 3-week trip back to the US, assuming that I'd wear the Hokas for my upcoming trail race in Massachusetts.

Did the Hoka One One Speedgoat 2 live up to my expectations? Here's what I thought:

Fit:

This was one of my first concerns, as some reviews say that the shoes are too narrow (especially in the toebox), or that they run small. I usually wear a 7.5 in US women's (for both my Salomon X-Mission 3 and Brooks Launch 5), but oddly enough, Hoka's True Fit tool recommended a size 7. I ignored the tool and just went with size 7.5. It seemed pretty consistent with my other running shoes, so I'd say that the Speedgoat 2 is true to fit. I do, however, size up with all my running shoes, so that does leave me some leeway (my normal shoe size is 6.5-7). 

One thing I didn't love was that the tongue of the shoe was shorter than I'm used to, so it felt weird as I was lacing them up. I didn't have any problems during the two runs I took with them though (4mi and 8.5mi trail).

Aesthetics:

Hokas are known for their characteristic thick soles and loud color combos. I got the Canton Blues color, but there are 8 other just as flamboyant options currently available on the US site. 

The arch blisters I got from the Hoka Speedgoat 2 (I'm sure everyone has always wanted to see a low-quality closeup of my feet post-run LOL)

Feel: 

This is where the Speedgoat 2s failed me. Contrary to popular opinion, I did not find that running in Hokas was like running on marshmallows. I found the thick soles very uncomfortable, and it also seemed easier to roll your ankle since you were higher off the ground. The soles are Vibram soles, however, and they're known to be high-quality and have incredible traction. 

The straw that broke the camel's back was really the nasty arch blisters I got near my heel. These blisters started appearing within a couple miles on my first run, and made completing the run extremely painful. In 10 years of running, I've never blistered so quickly, and in such an inconvenient spot. 

I thought maybe that I had to break the shoes in, so I tried Hoka's recommended duct tape blister remedy and laced up for another run. I didn't blister that time, but the duct tape was uncomfortable and the shoes themselves still didn't feel great. 

A little blooper from out mid-run photoshoot haha

Customer Service / The 30-Day Guarantee

I wanted to know if maybe the arch blisters were a common problem, or if that meant that I had gotten the wrong size. I emailed Hoka One One's customer service to ask these questions, but I got an irrelevant copy/paste response about warranty that didn't answer any of my questions at all.

I decided that I'd return the shoes under Hoka's 30-Day Guarantee, which lets you go on as many test runs as you want, and guarantees free returns within 30 days on full-priced* items. The shoes weren't getting more comfortable, and my time was running out. I called customer service to make sure I could return the shoes from a different location than the original shipping address (shipped to MA but was in OH), and also make sure the guarantee applied to sale items. The website says "full-priced items," but it's unclear whether you have to pay return shipping for sale items, or if the guarantee doesn't apply to sale items at all. The customer service rep said there were no problems for both concerns, and the person who got my gift did get a full refund after the shoes were received. I'm wondering if this might be because we had a code for free shipping, which might also make return shipping free. 

I'm definitely bummed about my Hoka experience, and will likely not try the shoes again for at least a while. Still, the 30-day guarantee is pretty helpful/reassuring, and I'm glad they fully refunded my Speedgoat 2s. (I wonder what happens with the test-run shoes though--do they refurbish them? Sell them used on eBay? Use them for running test-run events like Salomon's aperun?). 

I ended up ordering another pair of Salomon X-Mission 3, which were much cheaper and more familiar to my feet. 

If you are interested in trying Hoka One One, the Women's Speedgoat 2 is actually on sale for $110 vs. the regular $140. I don't recommend them based on my experience, but maybe they'll work for you. Since they are on sale, shipping is not automatically free like it is for full-priced items. My quick hack: sign up for their mailing list, and they'll welcome you with free shipping on your first order :)

Happy trails,

"You really should take out la mutuelle," the receptionist at my health insurance provider insisted, trying to convince me to sign up for extra health insurance coverage.

She pulled out a reimbursement form and gestured to it. "Look at this--this guy would've paid 700 euros for his hospital visit if he hadn't had la mutuelle."

I smiled politely and said thanks, but no thanks. I laughed and thought to myself: I'm American--you can't scare me with high healthcare costs!

It was wry humor that was unfortunately true. Last year, I paid $360 out-of-pocket for a two-mile (3km) ambulance ride in Boston where I received zero treatment; it was basically just a 10-minute taxi ride. The pre-insurance bill was $1800. My friend called the paramedics since I had peeled my finger with a veggie peeler, and we weren't sure if it needed stitches. I was luckily fine, and only received a tetanus booster, antibiotic ointment, gauze, and 3 Tylenol pills at the emergency room. That bill was $200 after insurance. 

Fortunately, I haven't had to go to the ER in France (so far), and healthcare is generally a lot more affordable. Since it's France though, there are also a lot more rules and administrative steps that might be confusing to an American expat. 

Here's what I've learned this year about French healthcare, so hopefully you can navigate the system more smoothly!

Overview of French Health Insurance

La securité sociale (la sécu) and la mutuelle

The first two terms you need to know are la securité sociale (la sécu) and la mutuelle. La sécu is the state-provided health insurance guaranteed to all employees in France. It covers about 70% of your medical costs* (I'll go into detail on the asterisk later). La mutuelle is the extra insurance many people take out to cover the remaining 30%. The cost of la mutuelle varies in function with your salary--the more you make, the more it costs. As an English lectrice (university teaching assistant), I made around the minimum wage of 1200€/month, and la mutuelle would've cost me 28€/month.

To receive the benefits of la sécu, you need to enroll with a health insurance provider. I chose MGEN, which is apparently the largest provider in France. I made an appointment and brought all necessary documents. I remember needing a copy of my work contract, bank information, and a copy of my passport. At some point, you will also be required to send in a copy of your translated birth certificate. When you make your appointment, be sure to ask what exactly you should bring.

Doctor's Visits

It is relatively cheap to see the doctor in France. Without insurance, the set rate for a general practitioner is 25 euros. With la sécu, you get back 16,50€ (your health insurance provider takes a 1€ fee from your 70% of 25€). 

Note, however, that you MUST declare a primary care physician to get back 16,50€, otherwise you only get 6,50€. Ask for a déclaration du médecin traitant when you sign up for la sécu. Fill it out, ask the doctor of your choice to sign it, and turn it in as soon as possible.  

Other Medical Specialists: Dentists, Eye Doctors, Physical Therapists

I haven't seen other types of doctors, but I did at one point consider seeing a physical therapist for a rolled ankle. Other medical specialists also have set rates, and they should be more affordable than they are in the US. La sécu may not reimburse these visits as well, however, so be sure to ask your insurance provider. I didn't go to the dentist or eye doctor in France since I just got those appointments done on trips back to the States. I have heard that neither of these appointments are very well covered by la sécu.

Also know that there may be unusual rules to make appointments with medical specialists. I was told that to see a physical therapist, I first had to see my general practitioner to get a referral. It seemed like too much work (and money) to have to visit two doctors when I just wanted to see one, so I never went.

When I had food poisoning: nausea, diarrhea, fever--the works!

Prescriptions

Prescription medicine is VERY cheap in France compared to the U.S. (around 3€ per medication before insurance). That said, you also aren't well-reimbursed for prescriptions with la sécu. For about 10€ worth of prescriptions, I usually got only 3€ back. Each prescription comes with a code that indicates the percentage you can expect to be reimbursed:

PHN: 0%

PH2: 15%

PH4: 35%

PH7: 65%

For women, I also want to note that reproductive care is more affordable in France. According to this article, birth control is 2-15€ for a month's supply. Plan B is also much cheaper, costing around 7€ instead of the $30+ in the U.S. 

Pharmacies

You'll notice that there are pharmacies everywhere in France--sometimes within 100m of each other! This makes getting prescription or over-the-counter medication a lot more convenient. 

Note, however, that non-prescription medication is a lot more expensive than prescription meds. I've paid almost 30€ for an aloe gel and herbal supplement a pharmacist suggested for my itching symptoms, 6€ for 14 ibuprofen pills (yikes!), and 10€ for a pack of probiotics that ended up giving me side effects. I would not buy any extra over-the-counter medications that a pharmacist suggests. When in doubt, just visit your doctor to get recommendations, as it will likely be cheaper after reimbursements than just going to the pharmacy for suggestions. Pharmacists in France are actually known for being sales-y, so don't buy into their gimmicks!

Carte Vitale / Reimbursement

Getting reimbursed is really easy and automatic, if you have a carte vitale. This is basically a health insurance card that you can swipe at the doctor's office and pharmacy to get your insurance discounts automatically. 

I received a letter from MGEN about the card two months after enrolling in la sécu. The letter asked me to mail in a copy of my translated birth certificate, residency permit, copy of my passport, and an ID photo so I could get my carte vitale. While they ask for a certified translation, I did my own, and it was accepted. You should, however, get an apostille in your home state before leaving to authenticate your birth certificate. An apostille is basically a piece of paper that declares that your official document is real. After sending in all this information, I got a second letter three months later, asking me to confirm my personal details by mail for my card.

Unfortunately, administrative processes take forever in France, so I only got my card 8 months after arriving. Since I didn't have a carte vitale for most of the year, I had to instead get a feuille de soins (photos 2 and 5) that I physically gave to MGEN so they could reimburse me through direct deposit. For prescription reimbursement, you need to attach a copy of the prescription to the feuille de soins (see below photo). The whole reimbursement process generally took one month.

My first marathon in 2016; was elated to finish after battling injury for so long!