June 5, 2019
Review: Hoka One One Speedgoat 2 (Women's)
I've wanted some more "serious" trail shoes for a while now, so I was happy to get a pair of Hoka Speedgoat 2 as an early birthday present. I've been running in Salomon X-Mission 3 for the past year--while they're great shoes, I saw Hoka One One (pronounced Hoh-ka Oh-nay Oh-nay) as the holy grail of trail shoes. Elite athletes tout the merits of the brand, and the Speedgoat 2s are actually named after Karl Meltzer ("Speedgoat"); he holds the record for winning the most 100-milers and also broke the Appalachian Trail record in 2016.
Slews of everyday runners also claim that running in Hokas is "like running on marshmallows" and that there's zero break-in time. After reading all the positive reviews online, I was convinced that the Speedgoat 2s would be as legendary as they sounded. I even left my Salomon X-Mission 3s in France for my 3-week trip back to the US, assuming that I'd wear the Hokas for my upcoming trail race in Massachusetts.
Did the Hoka One One Speedgoat 2 live up to my expectations? Here's what I thought:
Fit:
This was one of my first concerns, as some reviews say that the shoes are too narrow (especially in the toebox), or that they run small. I usually wear a 7.5 in US women's (for both my Salomon X-Mission 3 and Brooks Launch 5), but oddly enough, Hoka's True Fit tool recommended a size 7. I ignored the tool and just went with size 7.5. It seemed pretty consistent with my other running shoes, so I'd say that the Speedgoat 2 is true to fit. I do, however, size up with all my running shoes, so that does leave me some leeway (my normal shoe size is 6.5-7).
One thing I didn't love was that the tongue of the shoe was shorter than I'm used to, so it felt weird as I was lacing them up. I didn't have any problems during the two runs I took with them though (4mi and 8.5mi trail).
Aesthetics:
Hokas are known for their characteristic thick soles and loud color combos. I got the Canton Blues color, but there are 8 other just as flamboyant options currently available on the US site.
The arch blisters I got from the Hoka Speedgoat 2 (I'm sure everyone has always wanted to see a low-quality closeup of my feet post-run LOL)
Feel:
This is where the Speedgoat 2s failed me. Contrary to popular opinion, I did not find that running in Hokas was like running on marshmallows. I found the thick soles very uncomfortable, and it also seemed easier to roll your ankle since you were higher off the ground. The soles are Vibram soles, however, and they're known to be high-quality and have incredible traction.
The straw that broke the camel's back was really the nasty arch blisters I got near my heel. These blisters started appearing within a couple miles on my first run, and made completing the run extremely painful. In 10 years of running, I've never blistered so quickly, and in such an inconvenient spot.
I thought maybe that I had to break the shoes in, so I tried Hoka's recommended duct tape blister remedy and laced up for another run. I didn't blister that time, but the duct tape was uncomfortable and the shoes themselves still didn't feel great.
A little blooper from out mid-run photoshoot haha
Customer Service / The 30-Day Guarantee
I wanted to know if maybe the arch blisters were a common problem, or if that meant that I had gotten the wrong size. I emailed Hoka One One's customer service to ask these questions, but I got an irrelevant copy/paste response about warranty that didn't answer any of my questions at all.
I decided that I'd return the shoes under Hoka's 30-Day Guarantee, which lets you go on as many test runs as you want, and guarantees free returns within 30 days on full-priced* items. The shoes weren't getting more comfortable, and my time was running out. I called customer service to make sure I could return the shoes from a different location than the original shipping address (shipped to MA but was in OH), and also make sure the guarantee applied to sale items. The website says "full-priced items," but it's unclear whether you have to pay return shipping for sale items, or if the guarantee doesn't apply to sale items at all. The customer service rep said there were no problems for both concerns, and the person who got my gift did get a full refund after the shoes were received. I'm wondering if this might be because we had a code for free shipping, which might also make return shipping free.
I'm definitely bummed about my Hoka experience, and will likely not try the shoes again for at least a while. Still, the 30-day guarantee is pretty helpful/reassuring, and I'm glad they fully refunded my Speedgoat 2s. (I wonder what happens with the test-run shoes though--do they refurbish them? Sell them used on eBay? Use them for running test-run events like Salomon's aperun?).
I ended up ordering another pair of Salomon X-Mission 3, which were much cheaper and more familiar to my feet.
If you are interested in trying Hoka One One, the Women's Speedgoat 2 is actually on sale for $110 vs. the regular $140. I don't recommend them based on my experience, but maybe they'll work for you. Since they are on sale, shipping is not automatically free like it is for full-priced items. My quick hack: sign up for their mailing list, and they'll welcome you with free shipping on your first order :)
Happy trails,
May 25, 2019 Besançon, France
Race Review: Trail des Forts de Besançon 19km
Two weeks ago, I did a
19km (11.9mi) trail race as a training run—the Trail des Forts de Besançon. The
name of the race is a cute play on words, as “fort” in French means both the
adjective “strong” and the noun “fort.” Besançon is known for its citadel (la
Citadelle), a historic fort overlooking the city. The fort is a UNESCO World
Heritage Site, and is now home to a zoo and several museums. We ran through the
fort in the last couple miles of the race, and the view was lovely (though the
stairs not as much haha).
The event actually
offers 4 distances: the 10km, 19km, 28km, and 48km. There’s also a 48km two-leg
relay and the 10km is also offered as an untimed hike. The 10km races were held
on Saturday this year, and the others on Sunday. The 19km the historically the largest
race, with 1700 participants this year (2000 registered).
I initially wanted to
do the 28km (17.5mi), but I came down with food poisoning the week before (I
had the nastiest fish in Montenegro, and I also ate some unrefrigerated
leftovers…). I don’t think I’ve ever felt so awful in my life—and I’ve had
pneumonia before too. The fever, nausea, and diarrhea kept me out of commission
for a few days, so I figured I’d better run a shorter race.
Here’s what I thought
about the event:
Packet pickup / Swag:
Packet pickup and the start line were at La Friche Artistique de la Rodia on the outskirts of Besançon. You had to bring your confirmation email with your QR code, an ID, and your medical certificate (if not already uploaded online and approved). Pickup itself was quick—I arrived Saturday afternoon and there was no line. There were a handful of vendors, most notably sponsor Hoka One One, Tiger Balm (the French are obsessed with it haha), and a local cheese stand.
Race entry came with a shirt that was nice quality, but the women’s small was a little tight in the shoulders when most smalls fit me fine. Be sure to try the shirts on before you take them home.
All races get the same medal, which was super stylish this year. Both the shirt and the medal were much nicer than those of the Paris Marathon, which is way more expensive than this local race.
Course:
There was some
conflicting information about the course—the online description listed 700m
elevation gain, but the maps at packet pickup said there was only 500m of gain.
I joked to my friend that there was maybe 600m, right in-between the two. I
wasn’t too far off—according to my Garmin, there was actually 580m (1900ft) of
gain.
I found the first 7-8km
of the course the most challenging, as that’s where we saw the largest hills. I
actually sped up throughout the race because of my slower start—I walked all
hills, so the first half took more time.
Unfortunately, there were
also several traffic jams in the first 10km since the trail was too tight, only
allowing room for one person. We had a staggered start with 4+ waves, but they
weren’t super effective—the waves weren’t based on expected finish time and
were also only a few minutes apart. It would be helpful if future editions
spread the waves out and organized them by expected pace.
Another bummer was that
it had rained the day before—so it was mud galore (they did have a special
station to wash your shoes at the finish, though). The mud wasn’t too much of
an obstacle except at a steep downhill around kilometer 12.
Overall, the terrain
wasn’t too technical, but there were a lot of roots and rocks embedded in the
dirt. There was also about 3km (2mi) of pavement over the course of the race,
mostly near the start and finish. We did have to traverse several flights of
stairs at the Citadelle, though most of them were going down.
Fuel stations:
There were two fuel
stations during the race—one around 7km and the other around 15km. Each station
had orange slices, bananas, pain d’épices
(gingerbread), chocolate, cookies, pretzels, crackers, peanuts, water, and soda.
The finish line had similar fare, but also cheese cubes, cheese and meat
sandwiches, and beer (you got one for free as a finisher).
Tips + Summary:
- The elevation gain estimates can be inaccurate by over 100m. The 19km had 120m less of gain than advertised online and 80m more than listed on course maps.
- There might be some traffic jams due to the narrow trails, so get to the start line at least 30 minutes early if you want to run fast.
- Try on the race shirt before taking it home; the sizes might run small in the shoulders.
Overall, I’d recommend
this trail race, especially as a training run. The views are lovely, the course is a good challenge, and the event is well-organized. If you want to race your event, try to
get into the front of the starting corral. The friend who did the race with me
was irked that he had to stop so much in the first 10km because of the trail traffic. I was a little annoyed, but didn't mind as much since it was a chance to catch my breath haha.
In any case, Besançon is a charming city, and I'd definitely recommend visiting--whether for the race or just for fun. If you do this race, consider adding an extra day or staying the afternoon to explore and loosen up your sore legs (just remember that a lot of shops are closed on Sunday, the day of the 19km, 28km, and 48km).
If you also want to get a preview of the course, the event organizers often hold a couple runs (one in February and one in March) to let you explore sections of the trails. These events are free and are listed on the website (I didn't go, but I would've had I known about them sooner).
Happy trails,
May 15, 2019
A Guide to Healthcare in France for American Expats
"You really should take out la mutuelle," the receptionist at my health insurance provider insisted, trying to convince me to sign up for extra health insurance coverage.
She pulled out a reimbursement form and gestured to it. "Look at this--this guy would've paid 700 euros for his hospital visit if he hadn't had la mutuelle."
I smiled politely and said thanks, but no thanks. I laughed and thought to myself: I'm American--you can't scare me with high healthcare costs!
It was wry humor that was unfortunately true. Last year, I paid $360 out-of-pocket for a two-mile (3km) ambulance ride in Boston where I received zero treatment; it was basically just a 10-minute taxi ride. The pre-insurance bill was $1800. My friend called the paramedics since I had peeled my finger with a veggie peeler, and we weren't sure if it needed stitches. I was luckily fine, and only received a tetanus booster, antibiotic ointment, gauze, and 3 Tylenol pills at the emergency room. That bill was $200 after insurance.
Fortunately, I haven't had to go to the ER in France (so far), and healthcare is generally a lot more affordable. Since it's France though, there are also a lot more rules and administrative steps that might be confusing to an American expat.
Here's what I've learned this year about French healthcare, so hopefully you can navigate the system more smoothly!
Overview of French Health Insurance
La securité sociale (la sécu) and la mutuelle
The first two terms you need to know are la securité sociale (la sécu) and la mutuelle. La sécu is the state-provided health insurance guaranteed to all employees in France. It covers about 70% of your medical costs* (I'll go into detail on the asterisk later). La mutuelle is the extra insurance many people take out to cover the remaining 30%. The cost of la mutuelle varies in function with your salary--the more you make, the more it costs. As an English lectrice (university teaching assistant), I made around the minimum wage of 1200€/month, and la mutuelle would've cost me 28€/month.
To receive the benefits of la sécu, you need to enroll with a health insurance provider. I chose MGEN, which is apparently the largest provider in France. I made an appointment and brought all necessary documents. I remember needing a copy of my work contract, bank information, and a copy of my passport. At some point, you will also be required to send in a copy of your translated birth certificate. When you make your appointment, be sure to ask what exactly you should bring.
Doctor's Visits
It is relatively cheap to see the doctor in France. Without insurance, the set rate for a general practitioner is 25 euros. With la sécu, you get back 16,50€ (your health insurance provider takes a 1€ fee from your 70% of 25€).
Note, however, that you MUST declare a primary care physician to get back 16,50€, otherwise you only get 6,50€. Ask for a déclaration du médecin traitant when you sign up for la sécu. Fill it out, ask the doctor of your choice to sign it, and turn it in as soon as possible.
Other Medical Specialists: Dentists, Eye Doctors, Physical Therapists
I haven't seen other types of doctors, but I did at one point consider seeing a physical therapist for a rolled ankle. Other medical specialists also have set rates, and they should be more affordable than they are in the US. La sécu may not reimburse these visits as well, however, so be sure to ask your insurance provider. I didn't go to the dentist or eye doctor in France since I just got those appointments done on trips back to the States. I have heard that neither of these appointments are very well covered by la sécu.
Also know that there may be unusual rules to make appointments with medical specialists. I was told that to see a physical therapist, I first had to see my general practitioner to get a referral. It seemed like too much work (and money) to have to visit two doctors when I just wanted to see one, so I never went.
When I had food poisoning: nausea, diarrhea, fever--the works!
Prescriptions
Prescription medicine is VERY cheap in France compared to the U.S. (around 3€ per medication before insurance). That said, you also aren't well-reimbursed for prescriptions with la sécu. For about 10€ worth of prescriptions, I usually got only 3€ back. Each prescription comes with a code that indicates the percentage you can expect to be reimbursed:
PHN: 0%
PH2: 15%
PH4: 35%
PH7: 65%
For women, I also want to note that reproductive care is more affordable in France. According to this article, birth control is 2-15€ for a month's supply. Plan B is also much cheaper, costing around 7€ instead of the $30+ in the U.S.
Pharmacies
You'll notice that there are pharmacies everywhere in France--sometimes within 100m of each other! This makes getting prescription or over-the-counter medication a lot more convenient.
Note, however, that non-prescription medication is a lot more expensive than prescription meds. I've paid almost 30€ for an aloe gel and herbal supplement a pharmacist suggested for my itching symptoms, 6€ for 14 ibuprofen pills (yikes!), and 10€ for a pack of probiotics that ended up giving me side effects. I would not buy any extra over-the-counter medications that a pharmacist suggests. When in doubt, just visit your doctor to get recommendations, as it will likely be cheaper after reimbursements than just going to the pharmacy for suggestions. Pharmacists in France are actually known for being sales-y, so don't buy into their gimmicks!
Carte Vitale / Reimbursement
Getting reimbursed is really easy and automatic, if you have a carte vitale. This is basically a health insurance card that you can swipe at the doctor's office and pharmacy to get your insurance discounts automatically.
I received a letter from MGEN about the card two months after enrolling in la sécu. The letter asked me to mail in a copy of my translated birth certificate, residency permit, copy of my passport, and an ID photo so I could get my carte vitale. While they ask for a certified translation, I did my own, and it was accepted. You should, however, get an apostille in your home state before leaving to authenticate your birth certificate. An apostille is basically a piece of paper that declares that your official document is real. After sending in all this information, I got a second letter three months later, asking me to confirm my personal details by mail for my card.
Unfortunately, administrative processes take forever in France, so I only got my card 8 months after arriving. Since I didn't have a carte vitale for most of the year, I had to instead get a feuille de soins (photos 2 and 5) that I physically gave to MGEN so they could reimburse me through direct deposit. For prescription reimbursement, you need to attach a copy of the prescription to the feuille de soins (see below photo). The whole reimbursement process generally took one month.
May 10, 2019
Triathlon Training for a Marathon: My Experience
My first marathon in 2016; was elated to finish after battling injury for so long!
I realize that my training is unusual, not very logical, and probably makes a lot of running experts cringe.
The first potential issue is of course the low mileage. For the month of March, my 20-miler was almost 1/3 of my monthly mileage--which really isn't supposed to happen. Some coaches even say that long runs should only be 20-30% of your weekly mileage (though this seems extreme to me, as you'd have to be doing 67-100 mile weeks to do a 20 mile run). The reasoning behind the rule is that it can be unsafe to attempt longer distances if you don't have the right training volume. My training has probably been somewhat of an exception since I'm still exercising on the days I don't run (those training for an Ironman also tend to have longer runs that are a high percentage of their weekly mileage).
That said, many claim that weekly mileage matters in developing speed. Running coach and 2:28 marathoner Josh Sambrook explains that the two most important factors in predicting marathon performance are weekly mileage and pace of those miles. These impact is lessened, however, if you're aiming for above 3:30 marathons; this is when cross-training and other nuances can make a bigger difference. There's a cool race predictor tool that Josh introduces in his interview--I found it to be accurate within a couple minutes of my Paris performance when I entered my Barcelona Half Marathon time, my average weekly mileage, and average pace. (He claims that it's pretty consistent--so even if it's not totally accurate, you can usually adjust by the difference each time to get an accurate prediction).
During our two-week Easter break, I jetted off to Eastern Europe for the first time. While I've wanted to go to more "mainstream" destinations for a while, like Portugal and southern Spain, I figured I should hit my less accessible destinations first. After all, Portugal is much closer to the US than Croatia, and sometimes flying from Boston to Portugal is faster than flying from Paris! (especially for the Azores).
The photos of Croatia, Bosnia & Herzegovina, and Montenegro seemed stunning, so I decided to visit all three countries while I was in the area. They're luckily right next to each other, which made getting around easier. I flew into Zagreb, Croatia from Paris, and ended my trip in Kotor, Montenegro, which made it easy to fly out of Dubrovnik, Croatia (the airport is only 1.5 hours away).
Here's a quick recap of my trip, and a sample itinerary if you're planning to visit these countries as well.
14 Days in Croatia, Bosnia & Herzegovina, and Montenegro
St. Mark's Church
This is one of the more iconic spots in the city, as the tiled roof is very eye-catching. The church is only open at Mass, so I just came to see the roof.
Where to eat: Poljana, a state-owned restaurant that was surprisingly affordable, and had vegan options!
What to do: hike/walk (no swimming, as it's a UNESCO World Heritage site)
Where to stay: Hotel Bellevue (50+ euros/night, depending on season)
Both these photos are from the lower lakes near Entrance 1 of the park, the arguably more impressive part. The water is such a stunning turquoise and the falls are unreal. I started with the upper lakes (the smaller falls, but still charming) and visited the lower lakes on the second day.
3. Split, Croatia (2 nights)
Where to eat: was not particularly impressed by any of the food I ate. Prices also definitely got more expensive here.
What to do: Diocletian's Palace, Marjan Park, Green Market, Bacvice Beach
Where to stay: Cosy Rooms in the Center of Split (24 euros/night); run by the sweetest family
Diocletian's Palace
The main grounds are free and are well-integrated into the city, so I passed by several times. If you want to visit the underground part, you have to pay (I didn't go, so I can't tell you if it would be worth it).
Bacvice Beach
This was a lovely place for a freezing dip (apparently it was unseasonably cold for mid-April). I appreciated the step ladders that made getting in and out of the ocean much easier.
4. Mostar, Bosnia & Herzegovina (2 nights)
Where to eat: Food House, a restaurant off the main pedestrian street with vegan options. The veggie plate is AMAZING and very generous.
What to do: visit old town, Karađoz Bey mosque (great view of Stari Most, thefamous bridge), trip to Blagaj Tekija
Where to stay: Full View Apartment (10 euros/night); also run by the sweetest family--the mother kept bringing me complimentary homemade food, and took me on a trip to the iconic Blagaj Tekija!
Stari Most, view from Karađoz Bey mosque
Stari Most is probably the best-known landmark in Mostar. Adrenaline junkies might take a dip in the river by diving from the bridge, though it's generally seen as an unsafe jump. Locals might ask for donations from tourists before taking the plunge themselves, though.
Mostar had an unexpected Turkish influence, hence all the lamps, intricate dishware, and eye-catching tea sets. I really wanted to buy a lamp and tea set, but they were a little too bulky and fragile for my luggage haha. Souvenir shops overrun the old town, so you'll definitely have a ton of options. Word has it that you can try some gentle bargaining with the sellers, though I didn't realize until I left.
5. Dubrovnik, Croatia (2 nights)
Where to eat: I didn't eat out in Dubrovnik
What to do: it was rainy, so I didn't do much; I did hike up Mount Srd, but I don't think it's worth the effort, or the cable car price. People rave about Lokrum (island nearby) and Mlini (fishing town) though. I also really liked eating donuts in Cavtat, a fishing town near the airport. If you're a Game of Thrones fan, there's plenty GOT-themed tours as this is a filming location.
Where to stay: near the main bus station, or closer to the Old Town. I stayed in an Airbnb, but wouldn't recommend it for its location.
One of the most striking characteristics of Dubrovnik were the bustling alleyways. I would've loved to stop for a meal in one, though I suppose it's probably a tourist trap...
6. Kotor, Montenegro (3 nights)
Where to eat: Hoste Kotor, a tapas place in the Old Town with veggie options; the owner is happy to accommodate
What to do: hike the city walls, speedboat tour to Our Lady of the Rocks and Blue Cave, day trip to Budva (beach town)
Where to stay: I stayed in an Airbnb, but I'd also recommend staying closer to the Old Town. I was worried about noise, but apparently it quiets down a lot at night (at least in April)
I would definitely recommend the hike up the city walls, but 8 euros entry is a little pricey. There's apparently a free entrance, so try to find that instead. The views are very worth the climb, and there are cute sunbathing cats along the way.
What to Know Before You Go:
I got around primarily by bus, though I also caught a ride with other tourists once and took a taxi to and from airports. If you're going in a group, I would recommend renting a car, as the buses can be long and uncomfortable on the winding roads. If you do take the bus, know that you have to pay extra for any luggage stored underneath the bus (around 7 kunas or 1 euro per item).
These countries are on different currencies--Croatia, while a member of the EU, is on the kuna. Bosnia & Herzegovina is on the Bosnian mark, but I got away with using euros in the Old Town, or my card when paying at restaurants. Montenegro, while not in the EU, is on the euro. Most places will take card, but you'll want cash for market purchases and hold luggage fare on buses.
It may be difficult to find tasty and filling food as a vegan. I was not particularly impressed by most of the food I had, and it may be partially because a lot of traditional food is meat- or cheese-based. Be prepared to do some scouting!
There is a tourist tax in Montenegro. If you stay in a hotel, the tax (1 euro/night) should be included. If you stay in an Airbnb or Booking.com apartment, you'll pay your host; make sure your host has you registered, as this is apparently checked at the border. This may not be as strict as online forums make it seem, but I definitely was panicking at one point.
Smoking is even more common than it is in Western Europe. People may even smoke in their apartments, so be sure to ask your hosts about their rules if you're sensitive to cigarette smoke.
There are cats everywhere. Most of them are "stray," but people will give them food, so many look well-nourished. They're apparently very friendly in general, and don't mind a tummy rub or even being picked up.
Locals generally speak English and are very friendly and willing to help. My hosts were very attentive and sweet, a couple of them even welcoming me and taking care of me as if I were part of the family. And when I looked lost in Split, an elderly man asked if I needed help. That said, I did encounter one teenager in Montenegro who told me and an Irish friend I'd made to "get out" and that living in the Balkans was miserable compared to visiting. Be aware of your privilege as a tourist, and know that not everyone is excited about tourism.
Have you ever visited any of these spots? Let me know what you thought, or if there's a gem that I missed!
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