To successfully follow, rule #1 I told my family and best friend that we couldn't video call for a month. Instead, I'd send them brief written updates to let them know I was alive. I was pretty strict about not speaking English; when an English street performer in Lyon wanted to chat, I asked a nearby French couple to translate for me! 

I will admit, however, that I did break the rule twice: once, to call my American bank, and another time for a Skype interview.

The other two rules were pretty simple--I've gone on a handful of long social media fasts before, and I'd been writing down all my vocab words in my small notebook.

My Goals

I already had C1 fluency in French before this challenge, but I wanted to sound more natural when I spoke--this meant accent, sentence structure, and vocabulary. If you're not familiar with the Common European Framework of Reference for Languages, there are 6 different levels (A1, A2, B1, B2, C1, C2), with A1 being the most elementary, and C2 the most advanced. The official definition of C1 fluency is "effective operational efficiency."

Fluency is a touchy word for a lot of foreigner language learners. Despite having studied French for 10+ years, I'm still a dead giveaway American when I speak. I wanted to temper my "foreignness" and integrate myself into the language (very elusive and meta, I know).

The accent and filler words were things that I was particularly fixated on. I wondered if I could ever acquire more native-sounding pronunciation, as there are some sounds I just physically can't produce (I once spent 3 hours in the car with my Couchsurfing host trying to say "Bordeaux" right). I also hoped to integrate more filler words into my conversations, just as I naturally did in English.

Where I Stayed 

I found hosts primarily through Airbnb and Couchsurfing, or I stayed with friends. France Airbnb's can actually be pretty affordable--I found places ranging from $15-25 a night, even in some of the larger cities (though I did book about 1.5 months in advance). Unfortunately Paris remains incredibly pricey, so I was lucky to stay in a friend's spare room.

As a solo traveler, staying with locals was one of the most meaningful parts of the trip. I got to share part of their lives and practice French. For those of you who aren't familiar with the platform, Couchsurfing is basically a free version of Airbnb--you might not get a private room, but the hosts are looking to spend time with travelers. There are definitely some creeps on there, but as long as you look for hosts with 10+ good reviews, you should have a positive experience.

While Airbnb hosts are not usually as involved as Couchsurfing ones, I had great conversations with all my hosts; my Airbnb host in Nice even took me rock climbing (see above photo) and explored Monaco with me. My Couchsurfing hosts gave me tours of their city, took me bodysurfing (I failed haha), and drove me around the Loire Valley. I would have never been able to have many of these memories without them.

Was it hard to go a month without English?

I had previously studied in Bordeaux with Middlebury Schools Abroad, which is known for its language pledge--you have to speak French whenever possible, even with other American students in the program. Because of this experience, I was used to speaking predominantly French. My challenge, however, was stricter since I banned myself from speaking English altogether (basically if my friends or family didn't speak French, I didn't talk to them that month--brutal, I know). I also purposefully avoided anglophone media, which I hadn't when I was in Bordeaux. 

The challenge really wasn't significantly more difficult than my semester in France. I really only debated speaking English when there were other anglophones around who didn't speak French (like that English street performer and some American tourists who asked me to take a photo for them--it was a pretty mute exchange with a "oui" or two).

It was also somewhat awkward when I encountered French locals who wanted to speak English with me, as they wanted to practice their foreign language. I wanted to be able to reciprocate language guidance/mentorship, but time in English meant time away from French.

The Final Verdict: Did My French Improve?

I don't know that my French drastically improved--it's hard to measure language progress, even if you take an official exam. I do feel, however, that I was better able to hold deeper conversations. Near the end of the month, I carried a 3-hour conversation with a friend, without the usual fatigue that comes from long conversations, let alone one in a foreign language. 

I think total immersion for a longer period of time would definitely be more effective, but I find it unrealistic and undesirable to cut ties with those who don't speak your foreign language--I couldn't imagine not speaking to my family and close friends for several months. 

Overall, this challenge remains one of my fonder memories--I was really pushed to connect with locals and to grapple with the identity questions surrounding language. 

Fluency is really a never-ending journey, and a native language ban is just another way to grow closer to your foreign language and its people.

Before flying home to the States for Christmas, I took a little solo trip to Alsace, a French region bordering Germany. If Alsace sounds familiar to you, it might be because of your high school world history lessons. Alsace-Lorraine is territory that's historically flopped between the French and German governments, with the most recent switch being after WWII. Because of this shared heritage, German culture remains very present, especially in Alsatian food.

Alsace is especially known for its quaint villages and festive Christmas markets. I had a couple days off in the middle of the week, so I figured I'd go exploring. Another draw--all three of these villages were actually inspiration for the town in Beauty and the Beast.

Getting around Alsace without a car is a little complicated, but I was able to visit all of these villages via bus, either from Séléstat or Colmar. One of the buses I took was a special Christmas shuttle, or "navette de Noël." In the description of each village, I'll give further details on how to get there :)

Christmas in Alsace: 3 Fairytale Villages to Visit

How to get there: Line 106 from Colmar or Ribeauvillé. Tickets are 2,80€ one way, or 5€ round trip. In the warmer months, I might've actually biked from Ribeauvillé since it's only 3 miles away, and you pass through vineyards on the Route des Vins.

What I liked about it: This was my favorite village of the three that I visited, maybe because it was the most bustling. The Christmas market was the largest, though still modestly-sized compared to those in larger towns like Colmar. I loved the hints of green from the hibernating wisteria--I can only imagine how pretty the village is in the spring when the flowers are blooming. I also was tempted by a lot of regional specialties, from macaroons (the coconut ones) to spaetzle (kind of like a German mac n cheese, often with bacon). 

How to get there: I took the coach bus from the train station in Séléstat. With a youth discount card (carte jeune), tickets were 1,40€ one way, or 2,80€ round trip. You can buy tickets online here.

What I liked about it: This village was especially picturesque because of the hills and castle ruins in the distance. Unfortunately, the Christmas market only runs a few days each year, and I just happened to miss the last day earlier that week. Still, the village is charming and worth a stroll through. The bus from Séléstat actually goes through several lovely villages, and I wish I could've stopped at more. I was especially drawn to Bergheim.

You can sign up either online, by mail, or in-person the day of. Online registration closes a couple days before the race. I signed up the day of, and it was 3 euros more expensive than signing up in advance (original prices ranged from 9-15 euros). On the day of the race, they only take cash or check. 

Since entry fees are pretty cheap, you really don't get much swag. We were given a decent race belt though--you could snap your bib on and also put your keys in the little pouch (I'm wearing the belt in the first photo).

As is customary in France, you need a physical or medical certificate to run any race. All the document needs to say is that you're healthy and that running won't post any risks to your health. Make sure to bring a copy of this physical to give to race organizers, as they need them for insurance purposes.

The trails are incredibly scenic, but great views often only come with big climbs. According to my phone, there was 1078ft of elevation gain. There were two major hills that I remember, and most participants walked up them. Fun fact: apparently you're supposed to walk up hills during trail runs, since it's an inefficient use of energy to run up them.

Some spots on the course were unfortunately pretty muddy since it had rained recently, making the hills a little slippery. But I suppose hills and mud should expected on a trail run :)

Also typical of a trail race, there are no kilometer/mile markers, so you really do need a GPS watch or phone to track your distance. 

Overall, the scenery really is stunning, especially with the fall leaves. As you'll see in the next photo though, the Madonna statue isn't anything super special (it was actually under construction). Still, I'm glad I picked the 14km since we got the views at the top of the hill.

There's one fuel stop, right before the second big hill. If I'm not mistaken, it's around 5-6km in (the Madonna statue is around 8km). For the rest of the race, you're on your own. 

At the mid-race fuel station, there were bananas, oranges, dark chocolate, multigrain crackers, and pain d’épices (basically gingerbread, but in pound cake form). To drink, there was water and coke. The finish line fuel was basically the same, but there was also tea and hot chocolate.

One cool perk is that they hire a professional photographer, and you can download the shots for free (instead of paying 14 euros per photo, as is the norm). Unfortunately, the albums aren't sorted by bib--the albums are based on certain time frames, so you have estimate where you were at that time and dig through all the photos. I didn't mind too much though--at least they were free! 

I have a special talent for taking ugly race photos; these gave me a good laugh. I can't tell if I look like I'm smiling or grimacing or constipated in the one below.

• Only the 14km goes up to La Madone, so be sure to sign up for this distance if you want to see the statue. It's not super impressive, but the views at the top of the hill are stunning.
• Sign up online at least 3 days in advance to avoid the 3 euro price increase on race day (or don't sign up in advance so you can change your mind on race day, like me haha).
• Take a copy of your physical or medical certificate to turn into race organizers.
• Bring your own water/fuel--there is only one fuel station about halfway into the 14km.
• Track your run with your phone or GPS watch since there are no distance markers.
• Smile pretty for the free photos! (not like me).

If you want to run a scenic trail race in Burgundy, I highly recommend this race. La Madone takes place in Velars-sur-Ouche, just short drive from Dijon. If you get in contact with any of the running clubs in the area, people are sure to be participating and won't mind giving you a lift. 

Until next time,